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Pruning Types - May 4

What Is Rigging? - May 12

Pruning while trees are dormant minimizes the risk of potential pest problems and allows trees to grow at their healthiest.

Pests are most likely to infest trees when wounds are present and they can enter branches after a cut. Open wounds can make a tree vulnerable to insects. Pruning during the winter, dormant months before buds swell minimizes the risk. It also sets trees up to start growing their leaves back at their healthiest, with dead branches trimmed away beforehand. Another great reason to consider using an affordable tree service to prune before Spring growth is, removing leaves once growth occurs may reduce the tree’s overall photosynthetic capacity and reduce overall growth. Removing branches can also remove stored resources and affect future growth. Branches that have not been pruned tend
to grow more.

There are a few types of pruning cuts an affordable tree service will do when a client asks for a tree trim.

A branch removal cut, otherwise known as a thinning cut, prunes a branch back to its point of origin on a trunk, stem, or larger branch. Pruning at this location simulates where branches shed naturally.

With a branch removal cut, the part that remains afterwards has a larger diameter than the part that is removed.

We do not recommend flush cuts , which remove the branch collar and branch bark ridge of the tree, leaving trunk tissue more vulnerable to decay.

EverGreen Outdoor will likely ask you what your goal or objective is for the tree trim.

Understand the objective for a prune is crucial for us to choose the appropriate type of cut.

A cut that is done correctly will allow the tree to close the wound in a circular fashion, resembling a donut and forming a proper branch collar.

Some of the pruning tools you may see on the job include hand saws, chain saws, loppers, pole pruners, and pruning shears.

knot tying in Rigging - May 17

At EverGreen Outdoor, sometimes we use arborist blocks to decrease the wear heavy loads can have on our ropes or the tree. The blocks rotate and the pulley can be mounted with bearings to reduce friction. The pulleys attach to the rope or sling with a connecting link. They're designed for static, overhead rigging when there is low friction.

We run our ropes through either a natural crotch in a tree or through a false-crotch block.

Natural crotches are fast and effective when we safely can, but the rope can injure the tree in certain situations. Whereas the false-crotch block can increase friction and give us more options in where we place it.

We use all these different kinds of equipment depending on the unique situation to reduce the wear on our tools and increase safety.

When we're lowering large wood pieces on a job, we want to make sure we add more friction in a consistent manner by using one of these tools/devices.

One of the most important things we do at EverGreen Outdoor on any job is knot-tying. We tie knots to section off a piece of wood or in our loading.

One standard knot we tie is called a clove hitch. We also use a running bowline. We decide between the 2 after looking and assessing the ease of releasing the knot after loading.

Rigging is when an affordable tree service uses ropes and other equipment to remove trees and limbs. The use of rigging is necessary when felling the tree isn't an option. This can be because there are hazards or obstacles in the way. Such as houses, fences, power lines, or structures that can't be moved. Rigging techniques allow the climber to remove larger limbs in less time and with more control.

One tool arborists use in rigging is rope, and there are many kinds.

We'll go over 5.

First, a 3-strand rope isn't as strong as some others, but can stretch. Which can be useful in certain situations.

A 12-strand braided rope is a popular choice among arborists.

A 16-strand braided rope is much stronger than the prior two and is resistant of abrasion. It's another popular choice in tree experts.

A double-braid line is a rope inside of a rope. They're very strong and do not stretch much.

Lastly, the kernmantle rope has a core and a cover. They're used in rock climbing, but not as much with arborists in tree removals or tree trimming.

When deciding on which kind of rope to use, it's important to think through the weight and amount of forces and loads that will be involved in the job. Choosing the right rope and other equipment will prevent property damage and injuries.

Drop Zones - May 20

When pruning, a lot of the time we will cut a piece and throw it safely to the ground in what we call a drop zone.

Sometimes we will use rigging techniques to tip-tie the piece at the butt end, cut, and lower it to the ground.

When the piece needs to be removed without dropping either end of it, we tie it so it's balanced, then lower it to the ground.

In either of these techniques, we at EverGreen Outdoor use a tagline to direct the fall of the piece and control its swing. A tagline is a second rope which is tied to the piece and controlled by a ground worker. You will see this on the job when you see a climber in a tree and another tree worker on the ground below him.

In a tree removal, after we remove the brush and just the trunk remains, sometimes a rigging line cannot be anchored above the work. In these situations, we will often use a butt-hitch, in which a piece is tied above a cut and the line is run through a block or crotch below the cut.

There are so many methods for removing a tree or a limb, which is why we at EverGreen Outdoor come out to your property for a walk-through prior to giving you an estimate. During this, we evaluate the job to determine the safest, most-effective way to get your tree work done. We plan what equipment to use, what kind of rope, what kind of climb (if any), and how much space we have to work with.

Plant Health & evaluation - May 25

Whether we're talking about trees, plants, bushes, or flowers - plant health is crucial in our line of work.

In our plant health practices, we use proactive, preventive management approaches. Our process includes site evaluation and preparation, plant selection, planting and establishment, cultivation and maintenance, pest/disease management, and plant utilization and removal.

When we first come out to a property, we'll look at the plants and their growing conditions. Some of the things we take into consideration are where the tree or plant is planted and if the roots are compromised, if the plant or tree is being suffocated by other plants, if it's getting the necessary sunlight, watering conditions, and if there's any pests or diseases present. If we can detect potential issues early on, it can prevent serious problems in the future.

If we do identify a problem, we evaluate the situation to focus on the severity of the disease and what the impact is before we recommend a solution.

Some of what comes into play is how many people it could affect (if any) and if the problem is more of a nuisance rather than a more serious impact. When the problem is ruled as simply cosmetic and minimally impacts the tree's health, we make a decision to avoid short-term treatments at the expense of long-term solutions.

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plant diseases - june 1

Fungi and bacteria are usually the plant disease organisms that we see when we come out for an inspection.

Usually by the time our customer's notice them, the disease is already in an advanced stage. Some common symptoms we see are complete wilting or browning of the plant or plant part.

When we come out to your property for an inspection to identify the plant species and the disorder, you'll likely see us with a hand lens, a field guide, a soil probe, and sample collection containers.

Some pests and diseases are only present at certain times of day, so we don't only rely on a visual inspection.

In these circumstances, we'll use a trapping device.

At EverGreen Outdoor, we use something called a phenology calendar to track the seasonal development of pests.

This is useful to track plant development and behavior, which changes with climate.

With this, we can predict the development of insect and mite pests by observing the budding, flowering, or fruiting stages of common plants.

At EverGreen Outdoor, we are very familiar with the key plant pests around the Pikes Peak region which are mostly commonly found here. Some are aphids, beetles, moths, borers, and mites.

We are effective at treatment for these plant pests because we know the disease cycles, the signs and symptoms of specific diseases, and the appropriate management actions.

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pests in American elm trees - june 14

American elm trees are very popular in Colorado, largely due to the shade they provide.

The European elm scale is a common pest on these trees.

They hurt trees by encrusting their limbs, contributing to branch dieback, and retarding tree growth.

Newly transplanted trees with thinner bark are more susceptible.

European elm scale pests also produce honeydew which can cause serious nuisance problems and diminish the tree's value.

There are many ways to control this pest. Including chemical insecticidal sprays and systematic applications.

In Colorado the insecticide called imidacloprid, which was applied as a soil treatment annually or biannually in urban areas, was very popular in treatment of these pests in elm trees for two decades.

However, in recent years they've built up a resistance.

Our current recommendation is using an insect growth regulator spray called pyriproxyfen. When this spray isn't possible to use, we at EverGreen Outdoor recommend a trunk injection of azadirachtin or a soil injection of acephate.

Another more natural way to look into pest control is bringing in predators of European elm scale.

Such as parasitic and predaceous insects, bacterial/fungus diseases, and birds.

pest management - may 28

There are many pest management practices that we'll use at EverGreen Outdoor.

Integrated pest management combines multiple methods & steers away from chemical pest control.

Many organisms are not pests & contribute to a healthy landscape by suppressing pest populations.

A pest is an organism that competes with desirable plants for resources, threatens the health, structural integrity, appearance of desirable trees, & diminishes personal enjoyment, utility, or safety.

Pests can include insects such as mites, ticks, & spiders, microorganisms such as fungi & bacteria, mollusks such as snails & slugs, vertebrates such as rodents, mammals, birds, & reptiles, weeds, & parasitic plants such as mistletoes. When we come out regarding a pest issue, we evaluate what the pest is & what the volume of the pests is to determine what kind of intervention is needed.

Typically, plant health care focuses on pest prevention and suppression rather than eradication. We only use eradication when we're dealing with a highly infectious or damaging pest.

When coming up with a strategy, we consider the ecological, social, & economic implications of the management method we choose.

We want to avoid harmful effects on organisms that are beneficial. We also want to avoid any affect our treatment could have on people & animals. We want to make sure our treatment strategy causes minimal disturbance to the natural environment, promotes plant health, structural integrity & appearance, and resolves the problem.

soil quality improvement - June 9

Throughout the year, many of our customers at EverGreen Outdoor ask us to come out to evaluate their trees & the soil conditions. Sometimes this can happen after house/yard renovations, a new build, a new move, or after a drastic change in environment such as flooding.

Some urban areas located in low-lying parts of town have poor drainage & compacted soil, which impacts the growth of trees. We have found that when we improve stagnant soil water by mixing it with sand & obsidian perlite, the trees are much more tolerant of the conditions. When we do this, the number of plants, their weight, & the number of leaves increased. In horticulture, obsidian perlite is used as a soil amendment to prevent soil compaction because it has low water retention.

Light, temperature, and soil conditions are the major drivers of plant growth.

As you may know, trees have different water requirements depending on where they're located. For instance, if a tree is on a hilltop, a mountaintop, on a slope, or a ridge it will require different watering than if it was in a low-lying area.

Floods affect the growth and survival of trees because flooding and stagnant water conditions can damage plants.

Some of this can further disrupt trees in flatlands because of the reduced soil water drainage and waterlogging.

Waterlogging can reduce transpiration and the growth of fine roots in the affected trees.

In addition, damage caused by construction has resulted in the decline or death of larger trees.

This is partially a result of high potassium content left in the soil.

In these circumstances, we'll increase air content in dense urban soils under both stagnant and drained water conditions to improve tree health.

climbing - June 17

In most of our jobs at EverGreen Outdoor, there is some element of climbing involved.

The first thing we do is inspect the tree - the trunk, the branches, the crotches in between the branches, the crown, & the ground underneath. While we do this, we're looking to determine which branches & crotches we're going to rope into & run lines through. We also remove branches that are weak, that may get in the way of a climb, or that will cause damage in a removal when we fell it.

We look for a branch and a crotch that is sturdy and has no deadwood, to ensure it's strong enough to hold a rope. Since we'll be using that rope to either pull down a tree after we cut it, or to hold us while we climb it.

We'll then either use a weighted throw ball or a rope, and throw it over a branch that we want to put our rope in and pull our rope over the branch that we threw at.

Sometimes we get it on the first throw, other times it takes us a few tries.

After we get the rope over the branch, we tie our rope to the other end and pull it through.

Our next step is to get the rope not to move. Sometimes we'll tie a knot, other times we'll use a ring and carabiner to cinch the rope around the branch.

Once this is done, our grounds worker or our climber will put his whole weight on the rope to make sure we're good to climb, or pull the tree down.

Sometimes, we use a mechanical device and a harness to suspend ourselves from the rope.

Then we use ascenders to walk ourselves up the rope.

Next, we need to make sure we can get a chainsaw up in the tree too.

So we'll tie our chainsaw to the bottom of the rope so that when we get into position in the tree, we can pull it up to us.

This makes it much easier than attempting to climb with the chainsaw attached to us.

If we're just throwing the rope over a branch to remove a tree and it doesn't need to be too high, we'll free climb and use a crotch closer to the ground.

Friction in Rigging - May 15

At EverGreen Outdoor, we rely on friction to help control loads when lowering branches out of a tree. We wrap our rigging lines around the trunk of a tree to add friction and gain control.

One example of a friction device is called a bollard, which are posts that strap to the tree for taking wraps in a load line.

Bollards are large in diameter to help with the bend ratio. This helps lose less strength on the rigging line.

Some bollard-type lowering devices are designed with a ratcheting system that helps us remove slack from the line or lift a load.

When using rope, connecting links such as carabiners, shackles, or screw links allow us to not have to tie a knot each time we use rope.

Common shapes for carabiners are oval, D, modified D, and pear.

It is important to choose the right shape to keep the rope in the correct position in the carabiner.

We don't use these in most rigging operations including trunk and top removal operations because it could be considered a weak link in a rigging system. But we do use them in climbing! We at Evergreen Outdoor avoid connecting multiple links together for a tree trim or tree removal operation.

We also prefer using steel carabiners over aluminum because of their strength and durability.

There are a few different kinds of rope variations we will use when we come out for a tree trim or tree removal.

Through knotting or splicing, rope can be made into any number of tools to help us with your job.

Webbing slings come in differently sized sewn loops, or they can be knotted from tubular webbing. The strength of the sling depends on the material, if the loop is sewn or knotted, and the way the loop is used.

Cutting techniques - May 22

There are multiple kinds of techniques we use at EverGreen Outdoor when we cut.

When we're removing a large limb, we use the 3-cut method. This starts with an undercut on the branch, followed by a top cut which is done farther out on the limb. Next, we continue with our third cut, which is done directly outside of the branch collar. This final cut ensures that compartmentalization can properly take place in the tree and the wound will heal effectively.

We also use a snap cut to control small sections of wood, and it does not require rope. We do this by cutting a little over halfway through a section from the side, then cutting from the opposite side. We will then shut off the saw and break off the leftover piece manually.

We use a hinge cut when we need to swing a limb, rather than simply dropping the branch to the ground.

When we're climbing in a tree removal operation or a tree trim we plan it out. We also plan what equipment we're going to use and what is needed to handle the load of the job. We always remove brush first and clear a pathway for the limbs. In our process, we want to avoid being left with a limb that is too difficult or dangerous to remove.

And we always consider backup options based on what could happen if some component of our rigging fails.

Pest control & evaluation - MAY 30

Most pest problems come from organisms feeding on/inhabiting desirable plants & causing them injury in some shape or form.

Some of the factors we consider when coming up with a treatment plan include pest life cycle & damage potential, client expectations, plant value/condition, time of year, & site/soil & weather conditions. Our clients all differ in their pest management expectations (some are okay if we get rid of any plant injury/threat even if there are a few pests left over after treatment, & some want all pests gone for aesthetic appeal).

During an inspection, we collect site, plant, & disorder information to decide on treatment options for the diagnosis & management of landscape pest problems.

Site information means evaluating the weather, changes in drainage, landscape management practices, addition/removal of nearby plants, & hardscape construction/repair. Sometimes, plants are predisposed to pest infestation by adverse site conditions, which can be corrected.

We collect the pest/disorder description, information on the population or severity of the pest, the life stage, symptoms/signs, & potential for natural control of the pest.

Something called a plant phenological stage can also influence injury tolerance & impact pest control decisions. Phenology is the relationship between periodic biological events & environmental changes. For example, if it's late in the season & the leaves are about to fall on a tree, pest control may not be warranted.

tree decay detection - june 12

Tree decay is the result of an interaction between the host and fungus. When we come out to a property, we use techniques to detect and determine the degree and extent of the decay based on the current presence of the fungus. Sometimes we need to look for tree defects within tree trunks, on top of our visual assessment. Understanding the weakest parts within tree trunks and their positions in the trunk structure is important when assessing the risk of trunk breakage.

Internal decay or hollowing within trees is a main cause of tree collapse or breakage. Trees with compromised structure are vulnerable to damage during strong winds or heavy rain. In these cases we see trees start to lean or fall over, sometimes onto homes or into power lines.

In our visual inspection, we'll use a magnifying glass to look for decay in the cross sections of tree trunks based on color & tissue characteristics. But we need additional methods to determine the severity.

Sonic tomography provides us information on the wood quality of tree trunks. Generally, decay presence in wood reduces sound velocity due to decreased overall density, which applies to most common wood decay fungi. We'll also use drilling resistance tests to help determine the decay, hollows, or cracks. This method is quick & easy to do, but only detects severe decay & cavities.

Using the drilling resistance test with sonic tomography gives us the most accurate read to distinguish between decayed wood & cracks, as well as the location. We keep the number of drilling & sensor locations to a minimum to limit the chance of decay spread.

We also use a device called a pilodyn to assess the density of living trees & the extent of the decay in different locations.

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tree felling - june 19

Tree felling requires assessing the tree's lean, surrounding hazards such as homes, & using proper cutting techniques to ensure controlled felling. We create a notch, a back cut, & use wedges to guide the tree's fall.

First we plan & prepare. We do this initially during our walk through with you & this helps us decide what's needed on the job to ensure a safe fell. Some of the things we look for are assessing if there's room to fell the whole tree without it hitting a structure or power lines, or if we need to cut tops off of it in a climb first if there's less room for a fell. We also see if there's room for us to get a vehicle close by to help pull the rope in the fell, & if we can get a lift in. We also note the trees height & lean.

Once we get there on the first day of the job, we clear the area & remove any obstacles or debris. We then choose the appropriate equipment such as which kind of chainsaw to use.

The next step is making the notch on the side of the tree where we want it to fall, typically 70 degrees or more. The depth of the notch should be about one-third to one-quarter of the tree's diameter.

The next step is making the back cut, which is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, leaving a hinge of uncut wood around 10% of the diameter. In some situations we'll use felling wedges. Which are inserted into the back cut to help direct the tree's fall.

The next step is the tree fell & retreat. We'll make the felling cut while carefully monitoring the tree's movement. Once the tree starts to fall, we move away from the area where the tree will fall & use rope tied from the tree to a structure lined up in the fall area to guide it.

The last step in a tree fell is limbing & bucking. In this, we remove the branches from the fallen tree, starting from the base & working upwards. We then cut the trunk into manageable sections, which is called bucking.

bucking - june 22

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into shorter, more manageable lengths. This is then used for firewood, to put into a woodchipper, or to load onto a dump trailer. This involves limbing, which is where branches are removed from the trunk.

When bucking, we follow proper safety precautions. We'll often wear a hard hat, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, & sturdy boots. We also make sure to remove any obstacles or debris that could interfere with the process. We make sure we're aware of potential hazards like branches under tension & we plan our cuts accordingly. When we're working with larger trees or in challenging situations, we make sure to have a spotter to observe the work & provide assistance if needed.

Planning our cuts in bucking is very important. We'll identify the desired log lengths before we start cutting, we consider the tree's lean and potential for rolling or sliding to make sure our cuts are made on the uphill side of the log to minimize the risk of the log rolling or sliding into us, & we plan an escape route to make sure we have a clear path to move away from the tree if it shifts unexpectedly.

Next, we're going to talk about the cutting techniques we use for bucking. We start at the base of the tree & work upwards. This helps prevent the saw from pinching or getting stuck. We use the "overcut-undercut" method for limbs. We do this by cutting a small notch on the underside of the limb, then we make a second cut from above, meeting the first, to remove the limb cleanly. For larger branches or logs under tension we'll use a 3-cut method to relieve tension and prevent kickback. We make perpendicular cuts to the log's axis, which will result in cleaner cuts for firewood or lumber. We avoid cutting through the center of the log in one pass. This can lead to the saw getting pinched. Instead, make a series of cuts, working from the outside in. When bucking a tree that is leaning, we'll use wedges to prevent the saw from binding or the tree from settling on the bar.

Some additional safety tips we consider is keeping the chainsaw bar clean & lubricated. This helps it run smoothly & prevents potential overheating. We periodically stop & clear debris to maintain visibility & prevent tripping hazards. We stay mindful of the chainsaw's weight & balance. And we'll use our legs & knees to support the saw & minimize strain.